MAGAM Challenge For June Complete!

You may recall from this post that I had to make a full bust adjustment to accommodate my larger than a B-cup bust. All went well-- for the most part.  I noticed that the center front was waaaay lower than the back and sides at the hemline.  Hmmmm.  I rechecked my adjustments.  Everything looked okay.  Then I realized that the hemline was somewhat rounded as opposed to a hem that you would find on a straight skirt so when I lowered the center front to even out hem (standard procedure when performing a FBA) I did not compensate for the roundness at the hemline-- I think?

If anyone out there can suggest an easy pattern adjustment/correction to fix this, please let me know by leaving a comment.   I would like to try this pattern in the dress length.  For the current version I turned up a deeper hem at the center front tapering back to the original hem depth at the sides.  I then trimmed the hem to the original hem depth of 1 1/4 inch.

And here it is...

I love the center front gathered detail. The top is very flattering and the neckline is not too low.   AND as an added bonus this blouse incorporates two of my favorite things-- ITY knit and animal print! 

Until next time...Sew something you love!

Sewing Sanctuary Restored!

I am almost finished with my June MAGAM garment and will hopefully have pics of the finished project very soon.

Clean up Is Complete

I have been cleaning my sewing room over the past two weekends and I am happy (okay ECSTATIC) to say it is done!  There is still some fine tuning to be done like organizing patterns but I can move around without shifting things out of the way or tripping over things.


The chaotic cave has been restored to a sewing sanctuary.  Yeah!

Here is a view of inside the craft cabinet (behind full length mirror) and a close up of the bookcase. 

Cutting table is loaded with goodies-- more about these in a future blog post. I'm so excited!!!

Found these nifty shelves at a local Big Lots.  They are designed for kitchen shelves but they slide onto the cutting table for additional storage-- a perfect solution to my problem.  Now I can free up the table surface for easier pattern lay out. 

Coverstitch machine and serger setup.  Replaced the table lamps with clip on lamps to free up desk space.  Will work on a solution to hide the wires. 

Found a bag full of serger thread for about $8 at a local thrift store about a year ago. Still have room for a few more cones but don't think I will need any more any time soon.

My church was throwing away this table.  I brought it home, reconfigured it so that my sewing machine would sit flush with the table top, then covered it with a fabric remnant and clear vinyl.  The extension pole storage (see the bottom of this post) was another thrift store find.

Every morning before work I go I to my sewing sanctuary. Seeing It brings sunshine to my day.

Now the challenge is keeping it that way...




Until next time...Sew something you love!

A Journey from Chaotic Cave To Sewing Sanctuary

I find it funny that I never notice the chaos in the sewing sanctuary until it gets to this point--

You see, I have a really bad habit of sewing and not putting things away after I'm finished. I'm like a kid looking through the toy box to find a favorite toy.  Everything in the way gets tossed here and there and everywhere. 

I have every intent to return the scissors or the  seam ripper or the seam gauge to it's designated spot when I'm done using it. I also intend to fold those pattern pieces and return them to the proper envelope. I try really hard to throw away the thread tails as I clip them.  However, despite my best intentions I find myself turning in circles in the middle of my sewing room wondering how and when it went from sewing sanctuary to chaotic cave.  

This weekend I began process of restoring peace in the sanctuary.  

 Here is what I have done so far--

I have been trying to figure out a way to create more leg room and make my serger (middle machine) level with the table top without cutting a hole into the top of the desk. After realizing I had some room on either side of my table set-up I slid the desk and the drawers apart so that there was about 18 inches of space in between them. 

I went to the hardware store and had them cut two 18 inch pieces (the depth of the chest of drawers and desk) from a 1 x 2 wood plank and screwed one onto the side of the desk and the chest of drawers. I determined that my serger bed was 4 inches  from the top of the table, plus the 1 inch depth of the 1x2 equals 5 inches so I placed the 1  x 2 's about 5 inches down from the top of each piece of furniture and  parallel to the floor to make what I think are called braces but I am not a woodworker.   I made sure each brace was level and at the same height so that the new "table top" would be level. Then I took a piece of 1-inch thick 18 by 18 board (also cut to size at the hardware store) and layed it across the braces. Presto-- additional space for my serger. I used Velcro to keep the board from sliding on the braces.  I did not screw the board to the braces in order to make it easier to disassemble and move if I ever decide to rearrange the sewing sanctuary. 

To fill in the space between the serger and the old desktop I used a 2 foot by 2 foot piece of styrofoam insulation and instructions from the book by Marguerita McManus entitled Sew and Quilt in Comfort to make a serger insert. I covered the insert with same shelf paper.

Here is a closer look--

.

This freed up the top of the drawer and made space for a small ironing center.

I can't wait to sew on my serger now that I have more flatbed space. 

I still have quite a ways to go in order to transform the chaotic cave back into the sewing sanctuary but I think I'm off to a good start. 

Until next time...Sew something you love. 

Burda 6974 - Applying What I Learned About Full Bust Adjustments

I began this blog as an attempt to share what I've "figured out" in hopes that it might help someone else, but I also hope to learn from the experience of others.  Most of what I have learned about pattern alterations has been obtained from scouring books on fitting, other blogs, YouTube videos and online courses.  I have had many successes but I have also had a few duds along the way.


I have had my eye on Burda 6974 as my MAGAM project for June. I have, however, been somewhat reluctant to sew it because I knew I needed a FBA and did not see where anyone else had demonstrated this alteration on this particular pattern.


So here goes my attempt at a full bust adjustment on Burda 6974--

1.  I drew a new grainline parallel to the center fold which is on the straight of grain.


2.  I marked my bust point and drew two more lines-- one from the armhole to the bust point and one  from just below the armhole to the bust point. 

3. I made the full bust adjustment (I will not go into details here as there are a number of excellent tutorials on the internet). 

4.  I did not want a dart at the side seam so I decided to rotate the dart out at center front. To rotate  the dart, I drew another line from a point along the gathering to the bust point and pivoted the side seam dart closed.  This converted the dart to gathers at the center front. 

Here is how the pattern looks after the alterations described above.

And a closer look at the rotated dart adjustment. Again, this will not be sewn as a dart, but will be gathered.

5.  I made the corresponding adjustment to the front facing by lining it up with the top  I realized too late that I'd made the adjustments with the right side of the pattern facing down, which explains the backwards print. 

Will this alteration give me the fit I desire?  I won't know until I sew a test garment but the way I see it-- Nothing beats a failure but a try. 

So if all goes well, here is the plan for my MAGAM project for June.

I purchased this fabric on sale from an internet source (can't remember which one at the moment). After I received it in the mail I found that I didn't like it as much as I thought I would. So my June project will be a test garment of sorts. If it works, I will be able to wear it in the summer and with a cardigan in cooler months. If it does not work out there will be no love lost. The plan is to make the top but without sleeves (fitting set-in sleeves for me is a major alteration which I have not yet mastered).  I hope I will have good news to report. 

Until next time...Sew something you love!

LBD Vogue 8724 Finished!

MAGAM Challenge For May Is Finished

It's back to sewing for myself again and I completed my Make A Garment A Month Challenge for May.

I made Vogue 8724 about a year ago. This time I tweaked the fit a little more. This pattern is part of Vogue's Custom Fit  Pattern Collection. The great thing about Custom Fit is there are individual pattern pieces for cup sizes A, B, C and D . This means a better fit for those of us who need  a full bust adjustment, without the extra work involved in making this alteration.

The first time I sewed this pattern using the C cup pattern piece. I sewed it in a solid brown ITY knit. It fit okay but as I learned more about proper fit I noticed the bodice pulled too much across the bust.

I'd  previously measured my high bust and my full bust and got a 3 inch difference (or so I thought) so I chose the C cup. However, after noticing the pulls, I whipped out my tape measure again and noted that there is actually a 4 inch difference between my high bust and my full bust!  

No problem!  I cut out the D cup and made up the pattern. This time there was little or no pulling.


Can you see the difference between the fit of the C cup (brown) and the D cup (black)?

I also noticed that I didn't feel the need to readjust the neckline or look down to make sure the girls were not attempting an escape.


Time to plan for MAGAM for June.  I have a few garments in mind but more on that in a future post.

Another Thrift Store Find

I found this during my last trip to the thrift store.  I paid 6 cents!  I think this is the waxed tracing paper which will come in handy when making muslins. The markings should show up much better. 

Have a safe and happy Memorial Day Weekend!

Until next time...Sew something you love!