Monday, March 24, 2014

My Adventures With Vogue 1250

Starting this blog has cured my problem with  procrastination.  For one thing, having a self-imposed deadline has been just the push I needed to begin altering Vogue 1250 to fit my figure.  I have been wanting to sew Vogue 1250 ever since I saw so many versions of this pattern on the  Pattern Review website.     This dress seems to be flattering on a number of different figure types but the task of fitting this pattern to my figure was somewhat daunting. 

First of all, this pattern only goes up to a size 20. This normally would not be a problem because I generally choose a size 20 and then  make the necessary adjustments to fit my waist and hip measurements.  However, the second issue with this pattern, the unusual pattern pieces, made me shutter just thinking about how to begin adjusting for fit.  This dress pattern is different from any dress pattern I'd seen before.  Instead of separate front and back bodice and skirt pieces, the front bodice, front skirt and back skirt is all one pattern piece.   Then there is a separate pattern piece for the back bodice.  How on earth do I begin altering this pattern to increase the waist and hip circumference?!?  

I love the internet because if there is a problem, there is usually someone out there who  has at least made an attempt at solving it.  I've fixed a leaky faucet simply by searching the web and finding a video tutorial with step-by-step instructions.  Altering this pattern should be a piece of cake, right?  so, using my favorite search engine, I typed in "altering Vogue 1250" and up popped this post on the  Stitches & Seams  blog. 

Armed with this information I began cutting, adding, and reassembling.  Here is what I did--


A pic of the uncut/unaltered pattern piece for the bodice/skirt front and the skirt back (sorry about the sun rays in pic). 




This post suggested tracing off the dart and setting it aside to use as a template to redraw the dart after reattaching the skirt front and back pieces, but because I was planning to completely eliminate the dart and create side seams I only traced over the dart to make it easier to identify the dart for the size I was using.

 




Then I drew a line (in red) from the dart point to the hem allowance making sure the line was at a 90 degree angle to the hemline.




Next I drew a line bisecting the dart--




From there I cut the pattern apart along the red line and cut the front bodice and the front skirt apart at the lengthen/shorten line.    I made a 3/8" full bust adjustment ( I am a C cup and this pattern is drafted for a B cup) following the directions in Debbie's post.

I used a pencil skirt pattern that I had already adjusted to fit me to make adjustments to the front and back skirt by lining up the waistline and center front  of the pencil skirt pattern to the waistline and center front of the front skirt pattern piece.  I then traced along the side seam blending back into the original side seam near the hem.   Note:  when making skirt alterations if you plan to include a side seam, you will need to add a side seam allowance.  I did not in this case because my pencil skirt pattern already included a side seam allowance.



I made the corresponding changes to the back skirt pattern piece.  Necessary changes were made to the front and back bodice pieces to ensure everything lined up.  I taped the front bodice and skirt pieces back together and extended the back underarm (based on suggestions from reviewers on the Pattern Review website).  I did not reconnect the back skirt to the front skirt as I wanted side seams on the skirt.  The final pattern adjustment was to the front bodice neck line to which I extended the drape in length and tapered back to the original line. 

Here are the pattern pieces after adjustments have been made--



Now off I go to sew a muslin using this fabric.
 
I found this fabric in the red tag bin at Joann's, liked it in the store but had second thoughts once I got it home.  Stay tuned...


Until next time...sew something you love!



 

2 comments:

  1. Thanks for all these details! Glad you are starting a blog:)

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    1. Thanks for leaving a comment, Angela.

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